Walla Walla: 80+ Wineries and Counting

Though it is one of Washington's smaller AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) in terms of vineyard acreage, Walla Walla has long had the largest concentration of wineries in one valley. In comparing the number of wineries to the population, one would expect this growth to level off at some point, but, in fact, the opposite is true. The wineries just keep coming.

The Washington State Liquor Control Board currently reports 108 bonded wineries in the area. That includes all wineries who are licensed and not yet producing as well as a few of the hotels with designated wine rooms or wine distribution. As far as wineries who actually have wine and/or a tasting room and are actively distributing, the Walla Walla Wine Alliance reports 82. No matter what number you look at, the growth is continuous and remarkable.

This begs the question. Why is it with only 1,200 vineyard acres, winery owners continue to flock to this small southeastern town originally known for their onions and wheat?

"Walla Walla was an easy choice for me in selecting the site for my winery ," states industry icon Allen Shoup, owner of Long Shadows Wineries and Vineyards. "I had certain criteria and I looked at all that Walla Walla had to offer:"

•  "First and foremost, my winemaker lived there." Shoup is referring to resident winemaker Gilles Nicault.
•   "Walla Walla has a great airport only 15 minutes to the winery and a well managed community government that tries to help rather than prevent."
•   "There's a very supportive, active, and highly talented community of winemakers and growers in Walla Walla."
•    "Walla Walla is one of the loveliest communities on the East Side with many excellent culinary venues."
•    "And finally, thanks to the wine courses available at many of the colleges, especially the working winery at the Walla Walla Community College and its excellent staff lead by Stan Clark, a great availability of knowledgeable and enthusiastic labor."

There seems to be a mix of new business moving in, like Long Shadows, and native Walla Wallans joining their town's burgeoning wine industry.Va Piano Vineyards' owner and winemaker Justin Wylie is a fourth generation Walla Wallan. After going to college at Gonzaga and spending a year abroad in Italy, he returned to Walla Walla amidst the blooming wine industry and wanted to be a part of it. Justin began making wine with friends in his garage and he and his wife Liz later planted their vineyard in 1999.

"I would have never expected to go from making wine in my garage to owning a 20 acre vineyard and winery," Wylie says.

Va Piano also serves as an incubator for new wineries. Justin and Liz rent out their space and equipment to up and coming winemakers as a way to help them get their feet off the ground. Right now, there are five other wineries in the facility including Tertulia Cellars.

"It makes sense for us small wineries to share costs," states Tertulia winemaker Ryan Raber. "What we pay in a year's lease [at Va Piano} would barely buy one crusher-destemmer."

Tertulia is just breaking ground on their own tasting room behind Northstar Winery on the south side of Walla Walla. Even so, they plan to keep production at Va Piano for the next two or three years. As business grows, they can slowly wean away. Phase two of construction would include their own production facility and more barrel storage.

This type of collaboration and mentorship is not foreign to Walla Walla. Not only are newer wineries working together to share in the expense and agony of getting a new business of the ground; but the more seasoned professionals often times step in to lend their knowledge.

"Of course we help out. It's a reflection on Walla Walla wines and if one succeeds, we all succeed," states Duane Wollmuth, partner in Three Rivers Winery.

For years, Walla Walla wine pioneers like Leonetti's Gary Figgins, Marty Clubb or L'Ecole No. 41 and Woodward Canyon's Rick Small have lent their knowledge to newcomers. And when Ryan Raber brought investors to Walla Walla, Norm McKibbon of Pepper Bridge Winery showed them around and offered his support.

"Ultimately it was the wine community in Walla Walla that made us want to open our winery here," Raber insisted. "Everyone is so welcoming and helpful. I really feel like folks want me to succeed."

So, there you have it, accessibility and support of some of the best talent in Washington wines is a huge draw for new wineries to move to the area. Walla Walla wineries represent quality and it truly is a collaborative effort in many ways.

See a list of Walla Walla wineries and events at http://www.wallawallawine.com/.

 From Juice, The Latest on Washington Wine Country, January-February 2007

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